Other names: Baruntze, Barun Tse
Altitude: 7,129 meters, 23,389 feet; sometimes 7,220 meters, 23,687 feet
Coordinates: N27.872337°, E86.979436°
1st ascent: 30 May 1954 by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow
Baruntse is situated in Nepal between Everest and Makalu. Baruntse, a substantial and symetrical snow peak, has four ridges and four summits. It is bounded on the east by the Barun Glacier flowing north-south from Cho, to the north-west by the Imja glacier and the Hunku glacier forms the south-east boundary. The three main ridges of Baruntse are situated between these glaciers and form an upturned ‘Y’ running from Cho Polu (6695m) in the north past the Humni La, on to the north summit where it divides. Other well-known mountains in this area are Makalu, Lhotse, Chamlang, Everest and the trekking peak Mera Peak.
To reach the base of the mountain, several approaches are possible. One can trek from Lukla over the Mera-La to base camp or one can trek from Tumlingtar via Makalu base camp. The latter approach is more demanding, because 2 high passes have to be conquered, the East Col (or Sherpani Col) and West Col (both around 6100 m). The West Col is also the location of camp 1 and the start of the South-East Ridge to the summit.
On the picture above you can find the Baruntse summit in the shade just below that cloud in the center. The very wide col on the right hand side is the West Col (6100 m). The photo is taken from Baruntse base camp, facing east.
The best time to visit the region is Spring or Autumn. Baruntse can be attempted anywhere between mid-October and early November.
base camp (BC), 5450 m
camp 1 (C1) on West Col, around 6100 m
camp 2 (C2), around 6400 m.
Itinerary through Lukla
Day 01: Pickup from Airport transfer to Hotel
Day 02: Meeting with staff / Equipment checking, Processing of climbing permit
Day 03: Fly to Lukla 2860m and trek to chuthanga 3137m
Day 04: Trek to Tashi Dingma 4010
Day 05: Trek to Thangnak 4356m
Day 06: Trek to Khahare 5000m
Day 07: Trek to Kongma Dingma
Day 8: Trek to Chamlang Base Camp
Day 09: Trek to Baruntse Base Camp
Day 10 – 22: CLIMBING
Day 23: Base Camp cleaning
Day 24: Trek Amphulapchcha
Day 25: Trek to Chhukung
Day 26: Trek to Namche
Day 27: Trek to Lukla
Day 28: Fly to Kathmandu
Day 29: Free Day in Kathmandu
Day 30: Leave Kathmandu
Itinerary through Sherpini col cross
Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu transfer to the hotel
Day 02: Paper work at Ministry of Tourism
Day 03: Fly to Tumlingtar, Drive to Num
Day 04: Seduwa
Day 05: Tashigoun
Day 06: Kongma
Day 07: Acclimatization day in Kongma
Day 08: Dobate, 30 minutes before Mumbuk
Day 09: Yangle Kharka
Day 10: Extra day in Yangle Kharka due to bad weather
Day 11: Langmale Kharka, 10 minutes above Yak Kharka
Day 12: Acclimatization day and practice rope techniques with porters
Day 13: Makalu BC
Day 14: Acclimatization day in Makalu BC
Day 15: French Camp
Day 16: East Col Camp
Day 17: Cross Sherpani Col and West Col to Baruntse Base Camp
Day 18: Rest day in Baruntse BC
Day 19: Tried to reach C1 on West Col, back to Baruntse BC
Day 20: Rest day in Baruntse BC
Day 21: Move to C1
Day 22: Move to C2
Day 23: Reserve day
Day 24: Reserve day
Day 25: Reserve day
Day 26: Summit, back to C1 7129
Day 27: Back to BC
Day 28: Clean up BC
Day 29: Amphu Lapcha BC
Day 30: Cross Amphu Lapcha pass and to Chukung
Day 31: Deboche
Day 32: Namche Bazaar
Day 33: Lukla
Day 34: Flight to Kathmandu
Includes
Airport transfer
4 nights Hotel in Kathmandu including breakfast in 2 star standard
All Camping equipment for trekking & base camp
Food, fuel, vegetable during trekking and Base Camp for Member & Staff
Expedition Permit, National Park fee
Sleeping Tent per client in BC
Necessary base camp staffs as per clients number
1 Government Liaison Officer with daily wages, equipment & Insurance
1 Porters (30Kg. each) up to Base Camp per member including client’s climbing equipment to BC and return
Necessary Porters (30Kg. each) Lukla to Base camp and return to Lukla
Staff equipment, Daily wages, food, Insurance (personal, medical, evacuation).
Flight: Ktm-Lukla -Ktm, for member, Liaison Officer & Kitchen staff including airport tax
Cargo fees: Ktm-Lukla-Ktm
All overland transportation as per itinerary
Emergency Oxygen with Mask and reguletor
Fixed rope, Snow bar and Ice crew
Farewell Nepali Dinner
Excludes
Personal equipment & Insurance including emergency evacuation for members
High Altitude Food & Equipment for Member & Sherpa
High Altitude sleeping Tent
High Altitude Climbing Sherpa and his equipment, wages, insurance, flights (US$ 1500) for climbing support
Main meal (Lunch and dinner) in Kathmandu
International airport tax
Personal nature expenses
Walkie-Talkie Permit, Radio Permit
Satellite Phone US$ 500/ on |renting, calling card US$ 55/ for 39 Unit
Visa Fee during Nepal stay
Cargo Clearance and duty fee if needed
Garbage Deposit US$ 500/ (It is refund after expedition)
Bonus and Tips
Personal expenses such as laundry, telephone calls, alcoholic beverages, bottled drinks including cold drinks and mineral water
